Pesto Lemon Travels

Hiking and Beach Days in Positano, Italy

We were drawn to Positano to explore the coastal beauty of the Amalfi Coast and we were surprised to discover just how much charm this town has to offer. Think endless seafood pasta, coastal hiking, secluded beaches, unlimited freshly squeezed lemon juice, daily limoncillos and aperol spritz, and breath-taking sunsets over the Mediterranean sea. We spent four days exploring Positano and quickly understood why summers in the Amalfi coast are so highly desired. 

Where to Stay

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Prior to planning our trip, we heard many people sharing their hesitation about how over-crowded Positano can get. While this certainly can be true, it is very possible to visit the area without feeling bombarded with tourists. The biggest advice to avoid crowded areas is to wisely choose your accommodation. We decided to stay at an Airbnb in Nocelle, which is a town situated in the mountains above Positano. We won’t sugar coat how many steps to get there (1,700 steps to be exact!), but we actually welcomed the extra steps after many full days of eating. The view from Nocelle is unrivaled; ocean views for miles as well as a birds-eye view over the town of Positano. We initially chose this Airbnb because it was conveniently located on the Path of the Gods hike, but we discovered that it is surrounded by some of the most note-worthy restaurants in the area as well. If we were to visit again, we would definitely return to Nocelle for accommodation!

How to Get to Positano

Getting to Positano is no easy task, but we promise it is so worth any hassle! We started the trip in Naples and then decided to use a private driver. From Naples to Positano, the drive was about 1 hour and 15 minutes. We decided to book a private driver instead of a rental car in order to avoid the winding and narrow roads, as well as the limited parking. I would recommend avoiding a car rental in this area if possible. 

What to do in Positano

Positano is a gorgeous town nestled in the cliffs of the Amalfi coast. It is relatively small, and easy to explore the winding streets. We visited the stores selling hand-made ceramics and were tempted to buy even more linen clothing. We enjoyed exploring the nearby beaches as well. Arienzo Beach Club is a popular destination, and part of the beach is reserved for public access if you do not want to pay for a beach chair. Our favorite beach was Fornillo Beach where we spent hours in the clear waters of the Mediterranean sea. 

Take a Hike: Path of the Gods

With the vast cliffs, the Amalfi Coast has endless hiking options. The most noteworthy trail is the Path of the Gods; this is a famous trail that winds through the cliffs of the Amalfi coast and can be combined with other hiking routes for a longer hiking adventure. We started in Nocelle, hiked up to Monte Tre Calli, to Capo Muro, then to the town of Bomerano, and then connected to the Path of the Gods loop. The views of this hike were absolutely incredible! You could see Sorrento and Capri on one side, and then glimpse Ravello on the other. We saved this hike on AllTrails

After the most strenuous part of the hike, we stopped for lunch along the path at Il Caffe Degli Dei, which is a must stop along the path. Celebratory limoncello, along with squid pasta and lobster sandwiches, was exactly what we needed. And then don’t forget to stop the Lemon Point Cafe for a freshly squeezed lemon juice to complete the day. The lemons in the Amalfi Coast are so sweet and juicy! Another cute spot for lunch on the path near Nocelle  is Il Chiosco. We decided to pick up to-go bruschetta and wine to enjoy on our Airbnb rooftop for sunset. The owner is incredibly generous and gifted us his special home-made limoncello. 

Take a Day Trip: Da Adolfo

day trip to Da Adolfo needs to be on everyone’s itinerary! We started the day at the main port in Positano by hopping on a little boat with a flag of a big red fish on it. The boat picks people up around 10am and brings them back to Positano around 4pm. Once we arrived at the private beach area, we claimed our beach chairs and sipped on aperol spritz. Then lunch is served on their seaside terrace. We accidentally ordered the entire menu! For appetizers, mussels and octopus, first course we shared two pastas, and then the branzino. This was the absolute highlight of our time in Positano! 

Reservations here are required, and be aware, it is very difficult to snag a reservation. For months leading up to the trip, we tried calling and emailing and still could not get a hold of anyone to make a reservation. When we arrived in Positano, our Airbnb host coordinated with the restaurant to arrange a reservation for us. We also heard you can ask the boat the day before to request a booking! 

Indulge in Dinner with a View

La Tagliata: This is a family owned restaurant that offers a tasting menu, with such a fun dining atmosphere! They have a pre-set dinner menu and each plate has a few food options to try, filled with a variety of pasta and grilled meat. The sunset view from here is fantastic. We definitely recommend making dinner reservations in advance as this is a very popular restaurant! They also offer cooking classes which we heard were great. 

Rifugio Dei Mele in Nocelle: This is perfect if you’re looking for a fine dining experience with a gorgeous view.

Saraceno d’Oro in Positano: We came here for lunch and shared a classic margarita pizza and seafood pasta. This was my favorite seafood pasta in Italy!

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